There are a lot of different brands of saddles available. Darn
few of them are designed well for riding and training a performance
For cutting and reining horse events, you definitely need a saddle
that’s designed to help you "ride in balance and sit the
First, you want a saddle that was designed and built specifically
for reining or cutting. Both of these designs have their individual
advantages but remember, just because the manufacturer "calls"
it a reining saddle doesn’t mean it was designed "well"
The reason for this is that most saddle makers are craftsmen,
not horsemen. Very few of them know how to ride a reining or
cutting horse. It’s kind of like trying to design a winning race
car without ever having been in a race.
Anyway, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty and talk about the different
elements of a saddle and what to look for.
Seat: Remember, you want a saddle that will allow you
to sit the stop. First of all the seat of the saddle should
lay close to the horse’s back. The closer you can get to the
horse the better. Anything more than a couple inches above the
back is too high.
Also, the lowest part of the seat should be near the "middle"
of the seat. This low part is called the "pocket".
If the pocket is too far back you’ll be forced against the cantle.
Too far forward and you’ll slide up on the swells.
On my best saddles, the "pocket" is a little bit farther
back than the middle of the seat. Maybe 5/8ths or 2/3rds of
the way back from the front.
Beware of too small a seat. You need enough room to slide forward
and back a little. The average size woman usually needs a 16”
to 16 ½” seat. The average man, 16” to 17”. Also, I personally
like a seat that is built up in front. This gives a more secure
ride. However, the pocket should still be near the middle of
Horn and swells: This is the main difference between
a reining saddle and a cutting saddle. In reining your rein
hand needs to be able to move unobstructed. Too high a horn
or swells will get in the way. I’d want the horn no higher than
3”. And the swells no higher than 7”. I also like the horn to
be small in diameter. In a cutting saddle, I like the swells
and horn to be a little higher, around 8". And the horn
to be tilted a little forward. Actually, here on the west coast,
a lot of folks will show their reiners in a cutting saddle.
Stirrup Leathers: This is one of the most critical parts
of the saddle, yet the most overlooked. You want the stirrup
leathers hung far forward. Ideally, within a couple of inches
right behind the swells.
The reason is simple. To be able to stay balanced on a horse
that stops and turns hard, you’ve got to sit down in the saddle.
I mean way down. If the stirrup leathers are hung too far back,
your feet will be behind your center of gravity and cause you
to fall forward.
The result will be a loss of your balance which causes the horse
to come out of the stop. Also the stirrup leathers and fenders
should be made of fairly thin, flexible leather. For precise
leg cues, you don’t want a lot of bulk between your leg and
Cantle: Don’t buy one of those buckaroo saddles with
an 6” high cantle. It’ll hit you in the back. Quite a few of
"trail" saddles also have a steep, high cantle.
Stay away from them. 4 inches high max.
Rigging: How your saddle is rigged is extremely important.
And no compromise on rigging should ever be made when choosing
a saddle. The saddle you want should have a Full-Double
or 7/8th rigging.
Some horses need a saddle with a 7/8 rigging. But never, ever
buy a saddle that is ¾ or center-fire rigged. The saddle will
slide too far forward on the horse's back.
Look at the way a horse is built. The narrowest part of his
right behind the front legs (girth). This is where the cinch
wants to go.
If a saddle with a 3/4 rigging is placed in the correct position
horse's back, the position of the cinch will be back towards
the horse's belly. It will just naturally migrate forward to
the horse's girth area, taking the saddle forward with it.
I also prefer the rigging Dee to be either in-skirt or dropped
3 or 4 inches below the swells (called a dropped rigging). This
allows for the tree to pull down more evenly on the horse's
back. Both will be less bulky and give you closer contact with
your horse, too.
Tree: Make sure the tree fits your horse’s back. If it’s
too narrow or too wide your horse won’t be comfortable. Double
check to be sure there is enough clearance between the horse’s
withers and the gullet (a minimum of 1”).
A big problem with a lot of saddle trees, is that the bars don't
have enough curve to fit the horse's back. If your horse is
a little sway-backed and the saddle tree is real straight, your
horse is going to get a sore back.
When in doubt about a saddle, have a knowledgeable trainer take
a look at how it fits your horse. His opinion might save you and
your horse some grief.
To learn more about choosing the right saddle, listen to this audio
About the Author
Copyright © 2004 Larry Trocha